For forty years Bonn was at the epicentre of German and European politics. This medium-sized town on the Rhine was the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany from 1949, after it had been preferred to the more natural choice of Frankfurt. That choice was to emphasise the fact that it was a temporary situation whilst Germany remained divided, and whilst Berlin, the natural capital city, could not be used.

Berlin reclaimed that crown after re-unification in 1990, although Bonn remained the seat of government until 1999, when parliament moved into the Reichstag. Bonn however has subsequently not returned to its pre 1949 status as a provincial town in the shadow of its much larger neighbour Cologne.

From a visitor point of view, Bonn’s centre is attractive enough in its own right, with the Romanesque former cathedral the 11^th century Münster and the marvelously ornate Altes Rathaus, which glistens with silver and gold. It is also of particular interest to classical music fans as the birthplace of Beethoven, but its real significance remains its huge contribution to the development of modern Germany.

Still here

Despite the overall move to Berlin, a number of federal departments have retained their place in town, including some big-hitters such as Defence, Health and Environment. In addition several others have secondary offices in the city, such as Justice and Foreign Affairs. Both the Federal President and Chancellor still have official residences in Bonn, the Villa Hammerschmidt and Palais Schaumburg respectively. Inevitably there are a disproportionally high number of civil servants (around 8,000) still working here.

The United Nations also retains a significant presence, with the headquarters of its climate change department located in a building close to the Rhine, next to the former Bundestag and Bundesrat, which were the two houses of the Bonn-based parliament.

All these buildings are of major historical significance in post World War II history. Federal Chancellor Adenauer’s first official engagement at the Palais Schaumburg was with French Foreign Minister (and architect of the current EU) Robert Schuman. They are all located very close to each other in the Bundesviertel (Federal Quarter) along the Adenauerallee, around a mile south of the city centre. These form the central attractions of the Weg der Demokratie, a self-guided and interactive tour of the former and current sites of interest.

Situated in the same area is the excellent Haus der Geschichte (free to visit)  which charts the postwar development of German history of both the Federal Republic (West) and the German Democratic Republic (East). It is easy to distinguish between the two because the sections on the GDR are on a red background to emphasise its Communist control. Artefacts include a fuselage from an aircraft used to supply West Berlin during the Blockade, a Trabant car from the 1980s, and Elvis Presley’s kitbag from his time in the US army in Germany.

For those interested in art as well as history the Kunstmuseum Bonn and the Bundeskunsthalle are located next door to the Haus der Geschichte, whilst the Museum Koenig, a natural history museum,  is nearby on the Adenauerallee. – Mark Arrol

Two things give Münster, one of the most vibrant and captivating cities in northern Germany, its unique character: over 50,000 students and an estimated 500,000 bikes. That means around 20 percent of the city’s core population of 275,000 are studying at its university or colleges and that there are almost twice as many bikes as residents.

The two factors work together as a virtuous circle, as the preponderance of bicycles (or ‘leeze’ as they are known locally) and the associated freewheeling lifestyle actually attracts students from elsewhere in Germany. As a result, Germany’s ‘cycling capital’ claims to be the only city in the country where more journeys are made by bike than by car.

The city centre Altstadt is largely pedestrianised and is encircled by the Promenade, a green five kilometre ring trail through parkland, perfect for cycling, jogging or walking. As a result the pace of life in Münster is seen as a bit less frenetic than in other cities in this part of Germany.

Bicycles are everywhere, and the surplus of machines over residents is due both to multiple ownership and to daily commuting in from the surrounding region. There are bike racks for parking throughout the city centre, including one with 3,300 available spaces opposite the main railway station. Over 60 specialist bike retailers operate in the city and many will offer a rental service to visitors.

Home for the weekend

One feature of German student life is that a large number decide to study at their nearest university, whilst still living at home with their parents. Because the Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität (named after the former German emperor) is the sixth largest in Germany, this has the effect of reducing the number of people in the city over the weekends, actually making it quieter and even more appealing.

The average age of the city’s residents is around 40, making it one of the youngest in the country, a feature it shares with other medium sized cities with large universities, such as Heidelberg and Freiburg. The Altstadt is well endowed with bars and restaurants which appeal to the student population. Wednesday is the big night out for students and the teaching staff at the university helpfully avoid scheduling lectures for Thursday mornings!

Aside from the social life and the bikes, the quality of the other local open spaces is one of the reasons why the city is so appealing to potential students. It has a very justifiable reputation as a “green” city, further enhancing its appeal. The Aasee, a beautifully set lake just to the south west of the city centre, is a magnet for the student population when the weather is good, either just for relaxation purposes after lectures or to participate in any number of the water sports activities available.

The area surrounding the city, known as the Münsterland, is largely flat and ideal for cycling as a way to explore the region. The Rieselfelder Nature Reserve, with its 130 lakes, is just north of the city and the 100 Castle Route offers four routes (north, south, east or west) and the opportunity for a longer ride out to see a variety of attractive stately homes and romantic castles.

For quality of life and visitor appeal, there are few places that can rival Münster. – Mark Arrol