Düsseldorf has long been the headquarters city for the Ruhr, Germany’s powerhouse industrial region. It is the place for worker relaxation and for the spending of big industrialist salaries, which in turn patronises great arts and culture in a succession of big public galleries. It pays for eyecatching city architecture, too, and the net result is the secondmost liveable city in Germany (after Munich).

The city’s mostly pedestrianized centre is so new and modern it feels like an architect’s model. There’s Daniel Liebeskind’s curvaceous Kö-Bogen, whose ‘cuts’ in its façade sprout with greenery, and nearby Kö-Bogen II, a shopping centre disguised under beech hedges. Its most famous more traditional shopping boulevard, the ‘Kö’ – Königsallee – looks like a slice of Amsterdam, running as it does down both sides of a leafy canal, lined with flagship stores of famous names and patrolled by the unfeasibly tanned.

The old town

Beyond the Kö towards the Rhine is old Düsseldorf, a network of cobbled streets busy with bars and restaurants. There’s not a lot in the way of truly old architecture here but what it lacks in antiquity it makes up for in conviviality. The nightlife is vibrant, particularly along Bolkerstrasse, although you might want to steer clear on a football night.

The speciality of some of the old town taverns is Altbier, whose darker colour comes from the roasting of the malt. It is unpasteurised, so best drunk fresh at traditional locations like Uerige, Füchschen or Schlüssel, where the breweries themselves are directly on site. Here there’s a whole culture around drinking, mostly at convivial standing tables, where service is by middle-aged men (Köbes) who record your tally with marks on your beer mat.

Bordering the old town is the Rhine, with fully laden barges lumbering laboriously around its giant bend. Sheep graze on the floodplain on the far bank, while the near bank is lined with a long promenade, hugely popular amongst locals when the weather is kind. There are bars here, but the most dramatic view is from the top of the 240 metre Rheinturm, looking down on the river and the parliament building.

The city has a big encampment of galleries and concert halls – mostly just downriver from the old town – with a particularly large and significant art academy. No fewer than four art movements started here in the 1960s, during the time when the likes of Joseph Beuys and Gerhard Richter were students. These days its K20 art gallery has one of the biggest collection of 20^th century artists – Picasso, Kandinsky, Klee, Miro, Chagall etc – of any institutions in the world.

Art in the region has always been cutting edge, but not always recognised as such. Back in the 1980s, Joseph Beuys placed five kilograms of butter in an exhibition in the art academy, and called it ‘Fat Corner’. Eventually a gallery cleaner mistakenly cleared it away. Ever since then there’s been a German saying: Ist das Kunst oder kann das weg? “Is it art, or can I throw it away?”

Johannes Gutenberg was born in Mainz in around 1400. Little is known about his early life, but in around 1428 he and his family were forced to flee the city, and by 1434 he’d settled in Strasbourg, which is where he started experimenting with printing. By 1448 he had returned to Mainz again and is known to have borrowed money over the next few years to continue his work, setting up first a small printing workshop and then a larger one, probably at the Humbrechthof. Today you can still see the stair tower of this building just a few streets away from the city’s impressive 1,000-year-old cathedral.

With more funds behind him from relatives and partners, Gutenberg continued to develop his fledgling technology, and, by 1455 at the latest, he had printed his most famous work, the 42-line Bible (so-called because it had 42 lines in each printed column), using his revolutionary invention: the movable-type printing press. This was his method of hand-casting movable type out of a metal alloy, and it allowed him to make many identical copies quickly and easily. At the city’s Gutenberg Museum, one of the world’s oldest printing museums, visitors can watch a fascinating printing demonstration on a reproduction of the original printing press.

Revolutionary cost-cutting

So what was so significant about his invention? Well, up until then books had either been handwritten or printed using woodcuts, both of which were expensive and time-consuming methods. Gutenberg’s printing press, however, could print 42 lines in one go. This faster production time meant that the price of books sank, so that lower-class people could now afford them too. Literacy increased and a whole new way of communicating and sharing information began.

Traces of Gutenberg and his invention can be found all around Mainz, from the name of its university (Johannes Gutenberg University Mainz) to the Gutenberg Monument – a statue of the inventor holding a Bible and print types, located on a square that also bears his name. A commemorative plaque can be found in Schusterstraße at the spot where he was born – the Hof zum Gutenberg, today a pharmacy. At Liebfrauenplatz, a large square home to Mainz’s weekly market, cuboid stone sculptures that resemble movable type make up the Type Monument. Surrounded by flower beds, the nine pieces spell out the name ‘Gutenberg’ on one side.

The city also commemorates Gutenberg with an annual, four-day event called Johannisnacht. Over a long weekend at the end of June, locals and visitors alike can enjoy printing and calligraphy events, a large book market and exhibitions at the Gutenberg Museum. In fact, it is here at the museum that the most tangible Gutenberg legacy is to be found: two copies of the original 42-line Bible, which beautifully showcase the revolutionary achievements of this great inventor of whom Mainz is so proud.

The city’s tourist authority has more information.

The Rhine

The Rhine is a major transport artery, 766 miles long, and its waters sustain lots of boats and wildlife. Grand cities, including Düsseldorf, Cologne, Bonn and even Strasbourg, on the eastern tip of France, hang close to the river. There are also beautiful little riverside settlements along the way, which typify what people mean when they talk about the beauty of rural Germany.

This sense of the rural is accentuated by the numerous vineyards peppered along the Rhine valley. On most cruises, you can stop along the way and visit a vineyard or two, tasting their wines and trying the local food — which is about as authentic a German experience as you can get.

The best bit of the Rhine is undoubtedly the UNESCO-registered section between Koblenz and Rüdesheim, where the steep valley walls are topped with forest and dotted with crag-topping castles and half-timbered towns, each of which has its own river landing.

The Main

The Main isn’t as big as the Rhine, but at 327 miles it is still huge when compared to many other European rivers. Where the Rhine flows from south to north, the Main flows from east to west, through the heart of Germany. And it intersects with the Rhine near Frankfurt, just upstream of the latter’s UNESCO-registered section mentioned above.

Idyllic castles and countryside provide the gorgeous backdrop to a Main river cruise. Most routes pass through Frankfurt, allowing you the opportunity to spend some time in this vibrant city, but also to see it from afar. Its beautiful skyline has earned it the nickname ‘Mainhattan’, as it has some of the most impressively tall and elegant buildings in Europe.

There are also vineyards along the Main, so a comprehensive German wine tour of the Rhine and the Main might be on the cards for the die-hard wine enthusiasts.

You probably wouldn’t choose Mannheim as a stand-alone city break in Germany. The city itself, and particularly its immediate surroundings with Ludwigshafen, home of the chemical giant BASF, on the other side of the Rhine, are too industrial. However, if you are in this part of the country, a quick detour will be very worthwhile.

Located at the confluence of the rivers Rhine and Neckar, Mannheim offers a magnificent Baroque castle, a beautiful art nouveau ensemble around a water tower, some of the best German shopping and a great choice of cafés and restaurants. That’s why the locals love their Monnem, as it’s called in the local dialect.

Mannheim is particularly famous for its ‘chessboard’ layout. The city centre and its streets between the Neckar and the castle were laid out in a grid formation in the 17th century. Cutting right through it is the popular shopping boulevard Planken, a wide pedestrian zone. At the end – or beginning, whichever way you want to see it – stands the mighty fine art nouveau architectural ensemble, the Friedrichsplatz square. Its water tower, the city’s landmark, was built between 1886 and 1889. Both it and the statue-rich fountains in front of it are particularly spectacular when they are lit up by night.

Go al fresco in art nouveau surroundings

The best way to enjoy all this is sitting al fresco in one of the cafés and bars around the Friedrichsplatz. As soon as the sun comes out, so do Mannheim’s rich and beautiful and the rest as well. Particular favourites amongst the cafés are ‘Dolceamaro’, featuring a baroque-modern interior and Mediterranean-inspired menu, and just next door ‘Café Flo’, a quirky little bistro-type place that is almost as famous in Mannheim as the water tower. And heading towards the Neckar from here, past the city’s green lung Luisenpark, there’s the ‘Bootshaus’, a restaurant and bar above the local rowing club, with a great terrace for a summer evening.

At the centre of Mannheim’s shopping mile is the Engelhorn department store at O5 on the Planken. Still family run, it can easily hold its own next to Berlin’s or Munich’s fashion emporiums. Apart from every possible type of men’s, women’s and kids’ clothing, there’s a fabulous accessories department and coffee bars dotted around on several floors. Right at the top, ‘Faces Lounge’ is a popular café and bar in the evening with a great terrace and views over Mannheim, plus, one floor above, ‘Le Corange’ offers fine dining with equally impressive views.

Perfect for shopping and culture

Mannheim’s cultural scene doesn’t disappoint either with the Reiss-Engelhorn Museum, the Technomuseum and the Kunsthalle art gallery as the stand-out locations. The Nationaltheater with its own ensembles for opera, ballet and theatre as well as the Rosengarten concert hall offer a varied programme.

And, of course, there’s the stunning Baroque palace right next to the Planken. It’s the largest of its kind in Germany and partly occupied by the city’s university. The building has been extensively renovated over the past years and is well worth a visit.

Meanwhile the latest urban development to watch out for is the redevelopment of an old granary on the Rhine right opposite Ludwigshafen. The ‘Speicher 7’ complex includes a chic boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant. So maybe Mannheim is worth a stand-alone city break after all.

It was always taken for granted in our family that being able to speak other languages was not just a ‘good thing’, but essential. And so, in the summer of 1966, just after leaving school at the age of 18, I found myself on the Loreley Express from Hoek van Holland to Bonn, where I was met by my father’s cousin Helmut and his mother, my great aunt Annie (who, in spite of being over 50 percent Jewish had lived through the entire Nazi period in Hamburg with no more problems than most).

Living with Dad’s cousin came with many new experiences. One was living in a flat, rather than a three storey house. Another was living over a Gasthof, which must have imprinted itself deeply on my subconscious at the time. Even more memorable was working in a small factory making mechanical adding machines, among half a dozen workers with not a word of English among them. But most impressive of all was that huge river at the end of the street, just a few yards walk from the flat.

While I had grown up on the banks of the Thames, rowed across it at high tide and waded to the island in the middle at low tide, the Rhine was utterly different. It was hugely impressive, with hundreds of real ships, some racing downstream, others slogging upstream against the current. These ships had cars parked on the aft cabin roof! Scattered among the cargo ships were the wonderful white steamers of the Köln-Düsseldorfer Rheindampfschifffahrt. Those two words may have been hard to pronounce, but they certainly stuck in my mind, conjuring up all sorts of romantic images.

Finally, one Sunday afternoon I felt I could afford to spend some of my earnings on a steamer trip, from Königswinter on the opposite bank to Andernach and back. Though I later discovered that castles are not as frequent on this stretch as they are south of Koblenz, there were more than enough to awake a fascination with this great river that remains with me today. On the return journey, after much thought, I splashed out another couple of Deutschmarks on a little guide book All about the Rhine, which I still have, and which still, in spite of (or perhaps because of!) the poor English, evokes the magic of the great river.

Some 46 years on, at least in part in homage to that teenage discovery of one of Europe’s truly great rivers, I offer ***walking holidays (among many others) along the Rhine Castles Way between Koblenz and Bingen.

***Since writing this article, Russell has announced his retirement. His itineraries are now being offered by Macs Adventures.

Did you have any previous experience of travelling in Germany?

Only passing through airports until I went to Berlin for the first time about five or six years ago. I am completely captivated by this effervescent vital city – I love the contrasting architecture, the nightlife, the art scene and the people.

Can you pick a favourite from all the places you explored for Wanderlust?

The Baltic coastline really stands out in my mind.  Prora, Hitler’s Holiday camp is something that you’ll never forget once seen; the colossal ambition and size of the project is breathtaking.  The stunning chalk cliffs that Caspar David Friedrich so loved to paint are stunning.

You’ve been hiking literally all over the world. Was there anything on your German walks that particularly stood out?

The Amselfall in Saxony – a coin operated waterfall!

Your walks were themed around Romanticism. Were there any indications during your trip that the Germans are more romantic than the British?

An artist we interviewed is convinced that Germans became a great nation because of the Romantics, who looked at England, Italy and France as the great cultural nations. The poor Germans were burdened by a harsh climate and strict moral codes, “no wine, women and song” , so where could they get their inspiration from? The Romantics drew their inspiration from strolling through the countryside. Perfect. Personally, I didn’t notice any overtly romantic gestures while I was walking through the hills and nobody surprised me with flowers…

Why should British ramblers consider Germany as a travel destination?

Most Germans understand and are willing to speak English, it’s easy to reach and the Germans are very hospitable. Culturally it’s interesting because we’ve actually got a lot in common, but we’re quite different. There are so many beautiful spots to discover, which are quite untouched by mass tourism.

Please complete: Germany is Wunderbar because …

… they make splendid cars, frothy beer and a great Schnitzel – as long as you get to the restaurant before 8pm. And there are so many fairytale castles, it is ridiculous!

See our pages on the Baltic Coast, Bavaria, and Saxony for more on Julia’s stamping grounds.

Personalised Wanderlust DVDs are available from Julia’s website, www.juliabradbury.com

It is not easy to like Wagner, the man. Famously anti-semitic, rather self-centred and opinionated and something of a troublemaker, the composer had to spend some time in exile in Switzerland after he antagonized Saxony’s ruling dynasty.

But the composer’s music transcends his lifestory, and is particularly associated with a very beautiful section of Germany’s landscape. This main regional association is not with the area around Leipzig, where he was born, or Dresden, where he did much of his early work, but the stretch of the Rhine south of Bonn. This is where the river Rhine meanders its way between steep valley sides, lined with sloping vineyards, punctuated with attractive villages of half-timbered houses and dominated by the stern-looking fortresses and castles of robber barons, some of which date back to as early as the 9^th century.

Every cruise boat on the Rhine will play snatches of Wagner

This combination of fabulous landscape, long history, and a treacherous, powerful river has spawned a lot of story-telling. Much of the Rhine legend was seized up on by Wagner as good material for his operas, particularly the story of the Loreley, a beautiful siren who would sit on the clifftop high above the river, combing her hair and singing seductively to passing boatmen. His Ring cycle of four operas is a story of a battle between the Gods, played out between the Nibelungen, a Burgundian race said to have lived on the banks of the Rhine. The Ring itself is forged from gold stolen from mythical Rhinemaidens.

Virtually every cruise boat on the Rhine will play snatches of Wagner – the ride of the Valkyries, or Siegfried’s funeral march – at some stage in their journey, but the composer himself didn’t hang around the Rhine valley. After his exile in Switzerland he was lucky to find a patron in the form of Bavaria’s King Ludwig II, and Bavaria was to become his home, eventually building his ideal opera house in the town of Bayreuth. This is where the Ring cycle is still performed every year, as part of the Wagner Festspiele, a month-long festival of only Wagner’s music.

This exclusive festival is run by Wagner’s great grand-daughter, and attracts a cross section of Europe’s intellectual and cultural elite, although some high profile Germans can still be hesitant about attending. First-time visitors must apply in writing by October 15 the preceding year, and may wait years before they are granted tickets.